Flopped a wheel OOP, shove or raise less?
$860 effective stacks.
H utg straddle $10
Utg+1 limps
V utg+2 limps
B limps
BB limps
H $90 Ac5d
Everyone folds except V
($210) 2c 3h 4d
H $70
V $210
H ???
New game, only read on V is an earlier hand when H opened $20 in LJ 99, CO called, V on B made it $80. Later in hand V shows QTo. V is 30’s Asian male. H has been getting lucky, winning more than his share of hands in the first 30 min of this table.
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22 Replies
Call, then lead again on Turn. Shoving flop is just going to get everything not 65 to fold.
OTOH, if you think V thinks of you as a lucky dork with entitlement tilt from getting hit with the deck, shove away. Pretty sure they believe far more that H has AA than a straight here.
It's 86 straddles, it's fine if they actually do have 65.
I don't mind a 3bet on the flop actually. Because our range is alot of overpairs some AK/AQ type hands.
V is repping 2pairs, sets, and some 56 straights.
I don't think V has any overpairs range, if he had semibluffs like 54, 55, he ain't folding either.
Imagine you were villain, you'd be thinking wtf op has when he cbet/3bet this flop, he's not folding any value and semibluffs range. He's only folding pure bluffing range which doesn't matter anyway unless he can spew it off on the turn if you just call which I doubt.
As for 3bet sizing, jam is probably the only size.
Call flop donk small turn when the obligatory flush draw card bounces off the top of the deck and they will 100% jam over your small turn bet so you get them to put in the money instead of risking leaving some on the table.
Call, then lead again on Turn. Shoving flop is just going to get everything not 65 to fold.
OTOH, if you think V thinks of you as a lucky dork with entitlement tilt from getting hit with the deck, shove away. Pretty sure they believe far more that H has AA than a straight here.
It's 86 straddles, it's fine if they actually do have 65.
I don't necessarily disagree with your post, but Villain is going to be getting pot odds to call with a set. So if he folds a set, it's actually a good thing for us. I think that is his most likely holding too, given that he overlimped pre and called a big iso-raise.
I think Hero's hand looks like AA or KK, so Villain shouldn't fold anything that beats that. He may feel inclined to call off against a shove with 45s or 55 if he has that as well, since he has great equity against an overpair.
Your suggestion is probably the best way to get action from a hand like 66 or 77 though.
Also surprised I haven't seen anyone comment on pre-flop. I think squeezing this spot pre with A5o is way too loose.
I don't necessarily disagree with your post, but Villain is going to be getting pot odds to call with a set. So if he folds a set, it's actually a good thing for us. I think that is his most likely holding too, given that he overlimped pre and called a big iso-raise. I think Hero's hand looks like AA or KK, so Villain shouldn't fold anything that beats that. He may feel incline
Dang it, V does. They need 32% and have 35.5%. Poop. TIL...
Thanks Dan.
Edit, concur on pf as well.
Well, there you go, OP: grip it and rip it.
This is not the hand we want to iso. Click back flop to leave him room to semi bluff again. Make it 350.
H has been getting lucky, winning more than his share of hands in the first 30 min of this table.
If your self-read is accurate, this was a bad time to "squeeze." You raise with A5o when you haven't played a hand for an hour and everyone will give you credit for a big pair.
Can you fold if the turn pairs? If not, get your money in now. If he called off more than 10% of his stack with 65, consider it a temporary loan.
Preflop is horrible.
Preflop, you wind up playing a big pot with A5o OOP against one or two hands which have to be better or at least have better playability. I understand raising because you have something in the straddle, but it doesn't work out so well if you don't take it preflop or flop a wheel.
why are you making it 90 with A5o?
$860 effective stacks. H utg straddle $10Utg+1 limpsV utg+2 limpsB limpsBB limpsH $90 Ac5dEveryone folds except V($210) 2c 3h 4dH $70V $210H ???New game, only read on V is an earlier hand when H opened $20 in LJ 99, CO called, V on B made it $80. Later in hand V shows QTo. V is 30’s Asian male. H has been getting lucky, winning more than his share of hands in the first 30 min o
Grunch:
Based on your description it sounds like V is an over-thinker, and has decided this board is better for his range than yours, and is trying to make you fold an over-pair.
Think I just flat call, with plans to call turn, and probably donk lead the river for a small size that might induce him to spaz-raise.
If we raise, we're probably only getting called by 2P+, and folding out all his bluffs.
I think you have to shove. Would like to get him to bluff more, but can't give two free cards on such a wet board.
I think you have to shove. Would like to get him to bluff more, but can't give two free cards on such a wet board.
What are we concerned about? We're only unhappy on a 5 or A (because V will shut down) or if the board pairs, because V's advertised boat or 2p now stomps H. It's only 13 cards or so. (3 A, 3 5s, 1 of for what ever set V has, and 6 for the other 2 board cards). Not great, not terrible.
They "should" call off with a set, and might if H is ready giving off that vibe, but I can see call, donk on a safe turn, may be better at getting V to stick the rest of the money in.
So I very rarely straddle. I've often said no when people have suggested that the whole table straddle, not wanting my stack to go from 160BB to 80BB. Lately, I am thinking I should just agree to it as I should want to play bigger with my edge even if it means having to adjust and learn shorter stack strategy.
Yesterday, I posted the straddle just to add a little to my table image, which is generally verytight (often declining bomb pots, playing few hands). I realize that by raising A5o in the straddle means that if anyone calls, they are very likely ahead off me.
But I think that usually, I end up with a walk here. Like I said, my image is tight, I rarely straddle, and when I do straddle, my raising range is usually much stronger and doesn't include Axo. But, raising $80 to win $50, means I need the whole field to fold preflop only slightly more than 60% of the time for it to be profitable.
You aren't representing that much raising from the straddle, so hard to get folds.
IME players are less likely to believe you when you raise from the straddle. Also players will be limping in with stronger ranges because things tighten up when the straddle is on.
I agree that everyone will fold sometimes but that won’t make up for all the times you are OOP in a big pot with a dominated hand and no hope of improving. At least wait for A5s when you can make the nuts or flop equity with a draw.
I jammed. V tanked for quite a while. When he looked like he was going to fold, I tried to goad him: “you can’t even beat a pair?” He folded. Not sure what else I might say. My guess is he had an medium overpair to the board.
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I jammed. V tanked for quite a while. When he looked like he was going to fold, I tried to goad him: “you can’t even beat a pair?” He folded. Not sure what else I might say. My guess is he had an medium overpair to the board.
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Neither me or you are Negreanu, as a rule of thumb just STFU and pray 4 a call.
You wouldnt saying that if you were bluffing, probably.
In today's session, I rivered a wheel with 22 and got a V to call a fairly large river bet with a pair of 5's. I kept quiet, but I started squeezing my chips really tightly while he tanked.
Anyone have tactics to get a call when V's are tanking?
I call the clock. I don't even give a f**k how long they're in the tank. If I make the nuts and bet it, and they go into the tank, I'll call clock after ten seconds. I figure they're probably folding anyway, but they might get angry and spite call, or think I'm weak because a strong hand would want to give them all the time they want. If they're going to fold, better to do it sooner than tank for two minutes and then fold.
I like this idea. In my cardroom, time is almost never called. I see it maybe once every 400 hours played. So I probably wouldn't do it because people might get irritated with me. Particularly since I can tank for a long time. But along the lines of your suggestion, I am making a note that when I am holding a winner and V is tanking, I can feign very subtle impatience. When I have read subtle impatience in Vs while I am considering a river call, it has tipped me over into calling with good results so far.
I call the clock. I don't even give a f**k how long they're in the tank. If I make the nuts and bet it, and they go into the tank, I'll call clock after ten seconds. I figure they're probably folding anyway, but they might get angry and spite call, or think I'm weak because a strong hand would want to give them all the time they want. If they're going to fold, better to do it s
I like this idea. In my cardroom, time is almost never called. I see it maybe once every 400 hours played. So I probably wouldn't do it because people might get irritated with me. Particularly since I can tank for a long time. But along the lines of your suggestion, I am making a note that when I am holding a winner and V is tanking, I can feign very subtle impatience. When I h
So...we should all use our own best judgement and discretion, obviously.
In my case, I tend to act quickly, and rarely tank, so I think I deserve some leeway on the rare occasions I tank. I also think it's understandable for me to call clock if I'm rarely if ever the one holding up the game.
All that said, there are some specific scenarios where I think it's entirely justified, regardless of whether or not I'm trying to induce a particular action from an opponent, but especially useful when I am trying to induce:
1. When my opponent likes to trap by slpw playing and check raising, and he's check raised me.
My view is that my opponent had not one but two opportunities to think through his actions, first when he checked, and then when he raised. If this is how he likes to play, and I'm playing into his preferred line, in a spot where he has a hand he likes enough to check raise, he doesn't deserve the time to tank with a strong hand, nor posture before folding in the rare occasions he was raising as a bluff.
2. When my opponent is an uber-nit and has donked into me or raised my bet, and I've come over the top.
When a guy plays one hand every hour or two, and never puts money in without a very strong hand, he's not good for the game, and I have no patience for him tanking, after he's waited to pick up a premium. Especially if he's going to fast play it by donking or raising.
If he's a nit, I generally think he's going to fold, and his tank is just a little funeral for his hand, which is just holding up the game. But sometimes calling clock will induce a light call, because he plays so few hands that he hates folding once he enters a pot.
3. When an opponent is an habitual tanker.
If someone tanks every time it's his action, even when facing a small bet in a small pot, I'll start relentlessly calling clock on him, even when I'm not in a hand. It'll often pay dividends later on, when we are in a hand, and he'll either deliberately tank to be an a$$hole, and my calling the clock is expected, and annoying to him, leading to a spite call, or he'll feel pressured to act quickly and make a mistake with a light call.